The Devil, You and Me
By: Toni Lamprecht
After my Madagascar-trip last year I tried a really old project at my home area. What I found was an incredible dihedral with a lot of crazy movements. I bolted an easier left start and a left variation at the top avoiding a blank looking section between a crack-system and the arete on the left.
After a winter break followed the first ascent of "Sunjata", definitly one of my nicest creations in the area Kochel in South Germany. But I wasn't totally satisfied by avoiding the blank looking upper part and the roof at the top. So I placed some more bolts more and tried to link up the existing sections with 2 more hard boulder problems to an incredible 45m long-monsterroute.
The motivation was quiet high, but the summer quiet wet, so I got washed out a few times by thunderstorms or unstable conditions. But coming back from a two month trip to France and Mallorca I sent the project in perfect conditions in the first week after returning.
"The Devil, you and me" combines in the lower part a directstart (8b) with the crux-part of "Sunjata" (8bc). The second crux is climbed directly into the "blank section", creating another boulder-section (Fb 7c). After a rest you pump up throgh a lie back crack-system ("It's in my blood") to a good rest and then finish with a big roof (8b+) at the top.
Together with "Absoluter Kontrollverlust" (9a) this was one of my hardest routes this year, but I'm quiet unsecure about the grading, so I would say it is somewhere in the UIAA-grade 11 (8c-9a+). Anyway it's up to climbers who repeat the route to give it a decent grade in the future.
More important is to thank all the belayers, because without their patience this route wouldn't have been possible!