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Jesse Huey

Biography

Growing up in the shadow of the Cascade Mountains, adventure and athletics were always at the foreground of my life. While attending the University of Washington, I was introduced to climbing amidst a difficult pursuit of school and the demanding practice schedule of the university's varsity rowing program. Much in the same way that I approached the rigors and routine of a fulltime collegiate athlete, the transition from rowing and school segued naturally into a fine balance between my profession as a land surveyor and the pursuit of climbing.

Twelve years later, while not surveying, I am training for the most beautiful, difficult, remote, technical faces in the world. Be it rock, ice, or mixed I love them all. In the last several years I have free climbed El Capitan in a single day, mixed climbed M10, put up first ascents in Asia and Patagonia, repeated one of Alaska's most difficult grade 6 routes, and also have been incredibly injured in the process. Going climbing is always easy, the biggest challenge to me is maintaining the balance of my profession, passion to climb, and my relationships.

A few of my favorite climbs to date:

Freerider in a day: Led every pitch in 15 hours with only one fall which was climbed second try with Dave Alfrey following with Jumars (second time to redpoint the route).

El Capitan, Yosemite October 2012.

The Slovak Direct: Alaska Range, Denali South Face: 80 hour effort with 2 bivouacs climbed with Mark Westman, fifth overall ascent, fourth alpine style ascent.

The Shadow: 5.13, 50m, full ledge-to-ledge free ascent: The Chief, Squamish B.C., August 2010

The Moonlight Buttress: 5.12d, 400m, led and freed every pitch in a continuous one-day ascent: Zion National Park, UT,

Free ascent of the Dru Couliour Direct on the North face of the Dru in Chamonix France.

"The Squamish Triple Crown": 26 hour Linkup of University Wall 5.12b, Roman Chimneys 5.11a, The Northern Lights 5.12a, Freeway 5.11d, 35 pitches no falls: Squamish B.C.

Tague Yer Time: 5.12, 600m 2 day free ascent: Black Canyon of the Gunnison CO,

One day ascent of "The Linkup" combining the Regular NW Face of Half Dome & The Nose of El Capitan

The Real Big Drip: M7, WI6, 400m, Ghost Valley, Canadian Rockies, Alberta

T2 (mixed start to The Terminator): M7, WI6++, 200m, Mt. Rundle Banff,

New route on Celestial Peak, Southeast Ridge: Sichuan China, Siguniang National Park, 5.11- 40+ pitches

First Ascent of “Gringo's Perdidos,” North Pillar of Fitz Roy, Established a 9 Pitch 5.11 variation to the Kearney Knight Route on the “Cassarotto Pillar” Patagonia, Argentina.

First Ascent of "Last Gringo's Standing” on Aguja St. Exupery Fitz Roy Massif: Established a 14 pitch new 5.11 route on the Eastern side of St. Exupery Patagonia Argentina.

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