Raphael Slawinski
I have been rock climbing, ice climbing and alpine climbing for over a dozen years. Below is a brief list of what I consider to be some of my more memorable adventures. When not climbing, I am married with cats and teach college physics in Calgary.
Check out Raphael's blog [raphaelSlawinski.blogspot.com] for his latest stories and photos.
2007
FA of the West Face (V 5.10+) of Mt. Alberta, Canadian Rockies, with Eamonn Walsh.
2006
Hispar glacier, Karakorum, Pakistan – attempts on the south face of the unclimbed Kunyang Chhish East (ca. 7400 m), and first ascent of “Ali Chhish” (6164 m), with Ben Firth, Eamonn Walsh and Ian Welsted.
DTCB (V M7) – FA of alpine mixed route on northeast face of Mt. Andromeda, Canadian Rockies, with Scott Semple.
2005
Charakusa glacier, Karakorum, Pakistan – repeats of alpine rock routes and attempts on unclimbed Hassin and Ferole peaks (both ca. 6300 m) via mixed routes, with Steve Swenson.
Infinity Direct, Denali, Alaska (1600 m vertical, M4/5) – new mixed route on west-southwest face of Denali, with Valeriy Babanov
Japanese Route, Mt. Alberta, Canadian Rockies – FWA ascent of peak, with Scott Semple and Eamonn Walsh.
2004
Greenwood-Locke (summer V 5.9) – FWA of this classic route on north face of Mt. Temple, Canadian Rockies, with Ben Firth.
Sphinx Face (V M6) – FWA (and FFA as well as 2nd ascent overall) of this obscure route on north face of Mt. Temple, Canadian Rockies, with Valeriy Babanov.
Aurora (600 m vertical, WI6) – FA of alpine ice route on the north face of Mt. Amery, Canadian Rockies, with Valeriy Babanov.
2003
Musashi, Icefields Pkwy, Canadian Rockies (30 m, M12) – 4th ascent of, at the time, the hardest sport mixed route in the world.
Rocky Mountain Horror Picture Show, Icefields Pkwy, Canadian Rockies (30 m, M11+) – 1st flash and 3rd ascent overall; at the time one of the hardest sport mixed climbing flashes in the world.
2002
La Bastille, Mt. Rundle, Canadian Rockies (500 m, 5.11-) – FA of traditional rock route on previously unclimbed north face, with Eric Dumerac.
2001
Lowe/Hannibal, Mt. Geikie, Canadian Rockies (VI 5.10+ with 2 points of A0) – 3rd ascent of one of Canadian Rockies’ biggest north faces, with Eric Dumerac and Jeff Nazarchuk.
2000
Animal Farm Direct, Mt. Rundle, Canadian Rockies (30 m, M11-) – FA of, at the time, the hardest sport mixed route in North America.
Leftover Rib, Mt. Chephren (V 5.8/9) – FA of alpine rock route on 1500 m high east face completed in one day, with Jim Sevigny.
1999
Rocketman, Mt. Patterson, Canadian Rockies (350 m, M7 WI5) – FA of still the biggest “new wave” mixed route in the Canadian Rockies, leading all pitches.
Remembrance Wall, Ha Ling Peak, Canadian Rockies (555 m, 5.11b) – On-sight FFA of traditional rock route, with Eric Dumerac.
1998
Gran Route, Mt. Chephren, Canadian Rockies (V 5.11-) – On-sight FFA of crux aid pitches near top of 1500 m high east face, with Jim Sevigny.
1997
The Day After Les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, Stanley Headwall, Canadian Rockies (270 m, M7 WI6) – On-sight FFA and 2nd ascent overall of, at the time, the hardest long traditional mixed route in the Canadian Rockies, with Matt Collins.
Climbing Competitions
ESPN Winter X Games, Ice Climbing Difficulty, 2nd place, 1999
Festiglace du Quebec, 1st place, 2000.
Ouray Ice Craft Invitational Competition, 1st place, 2000, 2002, 2003.
Sponsors
Arc’teryx
Black Diamond
Clif Bar
Scarpa
Check out Raphael's blog at raphaelslawinski.blogspot.com.
