Rob Pizem
After playing competitive ice hockey for nearly 20 years, Rob was introduced to rock climbing by local Cleveland sheet metal workers. After some top roping and first road trips to the New River Gorge, he was addicted to the problem solving, physical challenge and the climbing life style. Since then his passion has brought him around the world to New Zealand, Europe, Canada, and Mexico for traditional, sport and big wall free climbs. Currently, he is inspired by the big stone and enjoys the challenges of new routing.
Rob Pizem: A Look Back at 2009
Looking back, Rob Pizem had a wonderful 2009 with his wife and of course, with rock climbing. Having been introduced to the sport in 1994 and taken a real interest in climbing in 1995, he never dreamed of accomplishing some of the things that he has been able to achieve. 2009 was full of adventure, successes and failures, all of which were great learning moments.
Early in January 2009, he was able to free an aide climb in Zion National Park called The Gentleman’s Agreement. A sandstone big wall free route that had a finger tips lie-backing crux at the bottom and some varied and challenging climbing up high.
His next adventure was also in Zion in March, where he was able to open up a three pitch free climb deep within the enchanting Zion Narrows. The route was called Walking on Water due to the long approach through the cool, clear water of the Virgin River.
A week later, Rob was working on another first free ascent in Castle Valley outside Moab, Utah. The crumbly and sketchy Fisher Towers is the home to an aide climb called West Side Story. After a few days work, Rob was able to free the route after withstanding sandstorms, snow storms, his partner’s broken foot, and the rain and wind.
Not every route that Rob tried was a success; later that spring he attempted a hundred foot dead horizontal roof crack project of his in Utah. There he was met with challenging moves and many failed attempts. In the fall, he was hoping to open a new free route which was an old Layton Kor aide climb in Dinosaur National Monument only to find that a portion of the route was completely blank.
Locally in Colorado, he began investing time on a granite roof crack near his home in Denver. The route which is short and bouldery, repeatedly spit him from the crux move mono time and time again.
By summer time Rob flew to Norway with some close friends and was able to climb many of the local gems on the beautiful Lofoton Islands. The team was even able establish a new big wall route called Man Hands on a deserted island only accessible by boat.
Once summer vacation was over and he was back at work, Rob trained for a canoe trip down the Green River in Utah where he and friends established about 10 new crack climbs and freed a once aided Green River Tower.
By the time fall was setting in he was drilling and bolting a new sport climbing area in southern Colorado. In addition to the sport climbs, many quality boulder problems were brushed and sent. One route that falls in at 5.13 at his new area was named the Flight of the Peacock for the air time taken while falling at the top of the short sandstone wall. Rob is excited for the snow to melt, so he can establish more boulder problems and sport climbs.
Finally, days before the New Year, Rob and Mike Brumbaugh raised money for Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado in the form of a climb-a-thon at El Potrero Chico in Mexico raising nearly a thousand dollars for the organization.
Rob is ready to continue pursuing his climbing goals and giving back to the climbing community in 2010. Keep an eye out for his slide shows and appearances at local climbing events and crags throughout the west.
Follow Rob and his adventures on his blog
R·320 Harness
This is my favorite harness... Ever!
I love this harness because it fits so comfortably and is the only harness that I don't even feel while it's on. I can wear it all day on a bigwall and walk away without any pain in my lower back or legs. The other reason is because the thing never wears out. Sandstone chimneys and offwidths used to destroy my old harnesses and the R·320 doesn't even show scratch.
Motive Polo SS
I no longer had to decide what to wear to work at my school once I found these comfortable and stylish polos. Arc'teryx has a color for all my moods and I enjoy wearing them all!
Tau Pullover
There has been no greater acheivement in outdoor clothing than the Tau Pullover. With a long chest zip I can air out on long hikes or stay warm on windy long belays high on the wall. The material is soft on the inside while being extremely durable and resistant to abrasion on the outside. I have abused and worn my Tau tops nearly every day of the year and they show no sign of giving up, me neither.
Gamma LT Pant
There are a few things that I need in this world and one of them is this pant. It's light weight, durable, wind proof, and stretchy. I always find myself new routing, hiking and climbing in some wild and rugged situations and these pants never show any wear. They dry quickly after the rain and I know they won't sweat me out on hot days. This is my favorite pant.
Dually Belay Parka
This thing goes on every trip with me. I have destroyed it, seen it recieve many tiny punctures and not get any worse. It's always the right temperature and it works well in the rain. It's deep inside pockets hold extra gloves or my climbing shoes on those cold days and it packs small enough to take along on the cold and windy bigwall ascents. This jacket gets used 10 months out of the year while I am in Colorado and Utah. It rocks!