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Matt Maddaloni


Name: Matt Maddaloni

Passion: Adventure rock climbing.

Home Base: Squamish, Canada.

In the climbing world, few people are more creative than this longtime Squamish local. Recently nicknamed “The Matt Scientist,” Maddaloni has invented his own unique piece of climbing hardware called the Anticam which enabled him to free an otherwise unprotect-able death flake. His climbing successes include a 25 day big wall first ascent in Baffin Island, a first ascent big wall in Pakistan that he soloed alone over two weeks, a 10 pitch 5.12 first ascent in the Bugaboos and a new 4500 foot 5.13 free climb on Mt. Combatant in the Waddington Range. In 2007 he completed two record link ups; three 5.12 free routes to the summit of the Chief in a day and then 4 days later he climbed 50 pitches and reached 5 summits in the Bugaboo Range and all without a rope in under 18 hours. "My number one passion is learning and I can't get enough.

One day I’m designing a new rigging device for film and the next I’m setting up a trapeze net to climb over. Climbing was a fringe sport when I discovered it 18 years ago but I've found that if I'm creative and not afraid to fail there are endless new situations to find myself in. Recently I discovered a 60-foot horizontal roof requiring every move in the book and even some that aren't like an upside down hand jam dyno with my feet over my head. This sport has so many genres and something new is always just around the corner. Have you ever tried bouldering on hooks or attempted a big wall while underground? I’m stoked about the deep water solo routes I’ve put up in Thailand that have no bolts or any other sign that we were ever there, the challenge of designing the Anticam to pinch a death flake so I could climb it safely, the 50 foot free falls over the world’s largest inflatable crash pad or being able to film climbing with a vertical cable cam."

Check out Matt's blog and his website to see what he's up to next.

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